Planting, Growing and Harvesting Garlic

Garlic is prolific in recipes as an easy flavor additive but has a multitude of other uses as well. It is thought to serve as a natural antibiotic and antiviral. This makes it wonderful for eating as well as potentially for use topically as it is thought to aid in overcoming skin infections. Some say it will help one overcome the common cold or even reduce blood pressure and cholesterol. It may help stabilize blood sugar, increase circulation, aid in intestinal discomfort and ridding oneself from worms (tape worm, roundworms, etc.), stop tooth pain, and treat burns. In addition it has many uses in the garden that we'll cover further on. This is a wide range and you should seek professional advice before using garlic as an implement in any of these, but it goes to show that it is a versatile herb. Garlic is a good source of B6, Manganese, Selenium, Vitamin C and is high in antioxidants.

Growing Garlic

Types

Hardneck

Better for cooler climates. This type should be planted in the fall. Hardneck garlic has a long stem growing through the bulb and yield fewer bulbs than softneck varieties. These do not store as well as softnecks and offer milder flavor. 

Softneck

Typically yields more cloves and larger bulbs than hardneck varieties. These are more flexible after harvest and are the variety that you may have seen braided. Softneck has a stronger flavor  and grow better in warmer climates. 

Planting

Growing garlic from bulbs is very easy. You can plant either in the ground or in a container, though it is a perennial herb and planting directly in the ground will likely produce better results as well as being easier. We won't cover container planting here. If you're interested check out this article from the Spruce.com on container planting. To plant from bulbs, buy bulbs specified for planting. Varieties purchased from a grocery store may not grow in your area or may have been treated for increased storage time, making them unlikely to grow well.

Garlic is a full sun plant. This means 8-10 hours of sunlight a day. It will still grow with much less sun, and even mostly shade, however, your plant growth will be stunted and you may need to wait quite a bit longer to harvest. Separate the cloves from the bulbs and plant each clove ~1-2" deep in well draining soil. Rows can be spaced 10-14" apart. Cover with fine soil. and water. Water regularly, but ensure well drained soils and allow soil to completely dry between waterings.

Garlic prefers loam or silty loam and avoid planting in heavy soil, poor draining soils. Garlic can rot in standing water. Aim for a pH of 6.5-7. Raised garden beds are a wonderful location for garlic as you can more easily control the conditions.

Timing

You can plant garlic in the spring or fall. Hardneck varieties will do better in the fall. If planting in the fall and in a cold climate, wait until temperatures begin (50 degrees F or  10 degrees C) to drop as the garlic may begin top growth too soon if temperatures are warm enough and will die off over winter. Planting in the fall allows for roots to form before frost sets in.  The best time would be 2 weeks after the first fall frost (September-November in Northern climates and February-March in Southern climates. Mulch if in a northern climate before winter and remove after threat of frost has passed.

Softneck varieties will do better planted in the spring. Note that softneck varieties do better in warmer climates, while hardneck will perform better in cooler climates. Plant as soon as soil can be worked.

Growing

Weeds can easily overtake a young garlic plant. Weed regularly at first to allow ample space and sunlight to reach plants. If stalks with bulbils appear, you will likely want to remove these stalks to allow for large bulbs to form. You may be able to use bulbils to plant garlic in another area but typically this is only after leaving the plant to grow at least 2 seasons. 

You may also want to remove some garlic scapes as this will generally push more energy into the bulb portion of the plant, leading to larger bulbs. Scapes are the green stem the comes from the center of a garlic plant and will show up in late spring. To remove, snap or pinch off the stem with your fingers or gently cut off. Don't throw these away, they are great for cooking. Ideally you will cut them when they reach 4-6" long and haven't yet uncurled. 

Water less frequently throughout the season as garlic will store better if harvested from dry soil. General guidelines are to water every 3-5 days in spring and 8-10 days through summer if it is very dry out. Discontinue watering as you approach harvest time. 

Garlic is a heavy feeding plant, needing plenty of nitrogen. If you have a poor soil, consider fertilizing with 10-10-10 fertilizer in the spring.

Growing as a perennial

Plant hardneck garlic as normal, but do not dig up. Cut scapes for cooking and drying to a mild garlic powder. Hardneck varieties produce bulbils which can be eaten as cloves would be or planted for more garlic plants. If garlic becomes too crowded as it will spread each year, gently dig up and separate part of the plant and replant. 

Companion Planting

Avoid planting near asparagus, beans, parsley, strawberries and peas as it can stunt their growth. 

Plant near basically everything else. Garlic can help repel aphids, Japanese beetles, a variety of mites, maggots and worms. They also may repel rabbits making this a great garden edging plant. We planted near raspberries to cut down on the pesky black beetles that seem to be everywhere on the fruit. 

Pests

Highly pest resistant and generally acts as a pest repellent. White rot is one of the few fungus issues that may appear with garlic. This is likely to appear in cooler weather. If plants become infected avoid growing garlic in this area for several years. 

Harvesting

If you planted in the fall, harvest is likely early to mid growing season, while spring planted garlic will be ready late fall. Harvesting can begin when nearly half of the plant has died back or when the lower leaves have browned, but the upper leaves are healthy.

Best picking occurs in loose, dry soil. If the soil isn't loose, gently dig  around the bulbs with a hand spade or fork. Then simply pull up. You can check one bulb before pulling them all by inspecting the wrapping. If the garlic isn't ready the wrapping will be very thin and nearly disintegrate. If left too long, bulbs may split affecting the storage longevity. The largest bulbs should be saved to replant for the following season. Bulbs stored for planting should be stored in a room with fairly high humidity to avoid drying out.

Drying / Curing

Let dry in a single layer in the sun for an hour or two. Brush off dirt when possible and cut off roots. If you plan to braid garlic stems, cut off roots very quickly as the bulbs may break if dried when roots are removed. Leave garlic dirty (hand brushed off dirt, but not washed) as this will extend storage life. If not planning to braid, cut stems back 1-2" above garlic bulbs. 

Dry further in a shady, dry area for 2 weeks. This can be done by hanging on string or on a cookie sheet to allow for proper ventilation. Be sure not to drop or bruise garlic as this will shorten storage life. 

Curing is complete when wrappers are dry and papery to touch. Cloves should be easily cracked apart. Remove the dirtiest wrappers, but do not wash. Flavor is increased as bulbs dry. 

Storing

Store between 55-70 degrees F or 13-21 degrees C in an area with good circulation, low humidity and out of the sun.  If stored properly, bulbs should last until the following season. Softneck can be stored 6-8 months, while hardneck is 3-4 months. Avoid storing in the refrigerator as this may lead to sprouting and rot. More storage options are: 

• Dehydrator - Peel off skins and slice cloves thinly. Follow manufacturer instructions (likely 12 hours at 125 degrees)
• Slice garlic and bake at 150 for 1-2 hours or until crisp. Grind into garlic powder if desired using a spice or coffee grinder. 
• Hang Dry - Hang stalks

Drying is critical for storage. Air dry for future planting use. Air drying, a dehydrator, or oven can be used to dry cloves that will be used for cooking. cloves will develop mold if not allowed to dry and cure properly.

Cooking Methods

Frying: Brings out stronger flavor, but may easily burn the garlic if cooked over high heat. Fry over low to medium heat and stir constantly
Poaching: Produces a sweeter flavor and allows more to be used without overpowering dishes.
Roasting: Creates a nutty flavor.
Rubbing: Rub a clove on a spoon or in a pan for just a hint of garlic.

AVOID: Cooking in aluminum, especially if combining with acidic flavors. This creates a less favorable flavor.

For great recipe ideas view Thrifty Cooking posts.

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