DIY Loaf style Soap Mold Pt 1
Hello & Welcome Fellow Soap Enthusiasts -
In this series, I will detail my efforts to create a new loaf style soap mold to replace our existing first model that is beginning to break down under use. This second version is a new, hopefully innovative design that I have yet to see on the soap mold market. The idea stems from a street fair vendor who was selling soap disks/circles made by using PVC pipe as the mold. PVC is an excellent material for use in a soap mold as it demonstrates a strong chemical resistance, maintains shape more rigidly than most common silicone molds, and has a relatively non-stick finish/surface. PVC is heavily limited by the forms available to everyday consumers, most commonly seen as drain pipe. This is fine if you like round disks of soap but I prefer bars so I need a loaf shaped mold and last time I checked they don't make square PVC pipe :(.
While doing some work on my house, furring in a window for trim, I was introduced to PVC vinyl boards usually used as outdoor moldings. Typically available in 3/4" thick flat boards with varying widths from 2-8", the opportunities for creative homemade soap mold designs and bar shapes are now able to venture beyond the simply round. Maybe another time I can discuss more thoughts on mold design as I will be building a nice and boring rectangle loaf soap mold.
Provided below is a rundown of the required materials and tools I during crafting.
Materials -
(1) 3/4"T x 6"W x 8'L Vinyl Board (Length can vary depending on intended size of mold)
(1) 1LB box of screws #6 x 1 5/8"L
(1) Tube of polyurethane based construction adhesive
(1) Metal dowel rod ~18"L x 3/8"DIA
Tools -
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Skilsaw or cutting tool (Vinyl is fairly soft, metal dowel is fairly hard)
Caulk Gun
Pencil
Tape Measure
Begin by mobilizing the necessary materials and tools to a work area you can afford to leave occupied as the entire process will take up to 3-4 days, most of this time is for the adhesive to cure. Keep in mind a significant amount of cutting and drilling is required which has the potential to make a decent sized mess with the resulting PVC fillings and dust.
The first piece cut will be the bottom of the mold, the dimensions can be adjusted to meet your needs, however I measured and cut this piece at 18". The next pieces to cut are the vertical sides, per this design the footprint dimensions of the sides need to be slightly less than that of the bottom. So if you bottom piece is 18" x 5.5" the sides when assembled will be no larger than 17.5" x 5". The four side pieces, two long and two short, dimension 16.75" and 4.25" respectively.This considers the 3/4" thickness of the board. It is important to make these cuts reasonably square. At this time it may be prudent to cut the metal dowel rod into four roughly 4.25" long pieces.
The next step includes marking the locations where holes are to drilled within the side pieces. I choose to assemble the sides using a basic overlap/butt joint with screws and adhesive, while also offsetting these joints between each long and short side piece. (See Picture Below)
My design uses 5 screws in each joint which is most likely overkill, if you feel comfortable with 3 screws go for it. This portion of the project is the most tedious but also the most critical as properly measuring and marking these holes will ensure the board ends do not split. The intent is to place the pilot hole in the center, 3/8", of the 3/4" thick adjoining side piece. (Pic)
Once these have been marked begin drilling the pilot holes with a drill bit smaller than 1/8", making sure to drill through the top piece and at least 3/4" into the lower side board to accommodate the 1 5/8" screws. Apply the poly adhesive to the joint and begin lightly driving screws with careful attention to proper alignment of the pieces. The holes in the lower side board should help to guide the screws as they come through the top board. It is also important to hold the joint tightly while the first two screws are being placed as the joint could otherwise open a gap. Do not overtighten or countersink the screws as this will split the end of the board.
Continue repeating this at each joint until the side piece box is complete. Clean any excess adhesive from the joints and set aside for ~20 hours to allow for the adhesive to cure. Note cooler temperatures will increase curing times. Stay tuned for Part 2 -
In this series, I will detail my efforts to create a new loaf style soap mold to replace our existing first model that is beginning to break down under use. This second version is a new, hopefully innovative design that I have yet to see on the soap mold market. The idea stems from a street fair vendor who was selling soap disks/circles made by using PVC pipe as the mold. PVC is an excellent material for use in a soap mold as it demonstrates a strong chemical resistance, maintains shape more rigidly than most common silicone molds, and has a relatively non-stick finish/surface. PVC is heavily limited by the forms available to everyday consumers, most commonly seen as drain pipe. This is fine if you like round disks of soap but I prefer bars so I need a loaf shaped mold and last time I checked they don't make square PVC pipe :(.
While doing some work on my house, furring in a window for trim, I was introduced to PVC vinyl boards usually used as outdoor moldings. Typically available in 3/4" thick flat boards with varying widths from 2-8", the opportunities for creative homemade soap mold designs and bar shapes are now able to venture beyond the simply round. Maybe another time I can discuss more thoughts on mold design as I will be building a nice and boring rectangle loaf soap mold.
Provided below is a rundown of the required materials and tools I during crafting.
Materials -
(1) 3/4"T x 6"W x 8'L Vinyl Board (Length can vary depending on intended size of mold)
(1) 1LB box of screws #6 x 1 5/8"L
(1) Tube of polyurethane based construction adhesive
(1) Metal dowel rod ~18"L x 3/8"DIA
Tools -
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Skilsaw or cutting tool (Vinyl is fairly soft, metal dowel is fairly hard)
Caulk Gun
Pencil
Tape Measure
Begin by mobilizing the necessary materials and tools to a work area you can afford to leave occupied as the entire process will take up to 3-4 days, most of this time is for the adhesive to cure. Keep in mind a significant amount of cutting and drilling is required which has the potential to make a decent sized mess with the resulting PVC fillings and dust.
The first piece cut will be the bottom of the mold, the dimensions can be adjusted to meet your needs, however I measured and cut this piece at 18". The next pieces to cut are the vertical sides, per this design the footprint dimensions of the sides need to be slightly less than that of the bottom. So if you bottom piece is 18" x 5.5" the sides when assembled will be no larger than 17.5" x 5". The four side pieces, two long and two short, dimension 16.75" and 4.25" respectively.This considers the 3/4" thickness of the board. It is important to make these cuts reasonably square. At this time it may be prudent to cut the metal dowel rod into four roughly 4.25" long pieces.
The next step includes marking the locations where holes are to drilled within the side pieces. I choose to assemble the sides using a basic overlap/butt joint with screws and adhesive, while also offsetting these joints between each long and short side piece. (See Picture Below)
My design uses 5 screws in each joint which is most likely overkill, if you feel comfortable with 3 screws go for it. This portion of the project is the most tedious but also the most critical as properly measuring and marking these holes will ensure the board ends do not split. The intent is to place the pilot hole in the center, 3/8", of the 3/4" thick adjoining side piece. (Pic)
Once these have been marked begin drilling the pilot holes with a drill bit smaller than 1/8", making sure to drill through the top piece and at least 3/4" into the lower side board to accommodate the 1 5/8" screws. Apply the poly adhesive to the joint and begin lightly driving screws with careful attention to proper alignment of the pieces. The holes in the lower side board should help to guide the screws as they come through the top board. It is also important to hold the joint tightly while the first two screws are being placed as the joint could otherwise open a gap. Do not overtighten or countersink the screws as this will split the end of the board.Continue repeating this at each joint until the side piece box is complete. Clean any excess adhesive from the joints and set aside for ~20 hours to allow for the adhesive to cure. Note cooler temperatures will increase curing times. Stay tuned for Part 2 -
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